An Impact Innovation Funded Project

Priority Area: 

Circular Knowledge Systems

Bio-Couture: Empowering Sustainable Fashion and Manufacturing with Bio-based Materials

The fashion industry, a major global polluter, faces environmental challenges from synthetic materials that contribute to chemical waste and microplastic pollution. In response, bio-based materials (Bio-BMs) like bacterial cellulose and mycelium-based leather have gained interest for their sustainability benefits, being renewable and biodegradable. However, a lack of comprehensive frameworks to assess their environmental impact limits their potential. This project aims to bridge that gap by conducting a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Bio-BMs, specifically bacterial cellulose leather, to create a detailed sustainability profile. The findings will guide industry stakeholders in adopting Bio-BMs, promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.

Dr. Yuyuan Shi

Lecturer in Fashion

Yuyuan specialises in fashion and textile technology. Her extensive academic and industry experience bridges theory and practice, advancing sustainable fashion design and manufacturing through innovative materials and smart techniques.

Name of Lead Applicant:

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Additional Team Members: 

Dr. Yuyuan Shi 

Lecturer in Fashion 

Northumbria University

Dr Zafar Ahmed – Assistant Professor in Social Work, Education and Community Wellbeing (Northumbria University)

Professor Meng Zhang – Professor in Microbial Biotechnology (Northumbria University)

Professor Martyn Dade-Robertson – Professor of Emerging Technology (Northumbria University)

The increasing interest in next-generation Bio-Based Materials (Bio-BMs), such as microbial cellulose and mycelium-based vegan leather, highlights their potential as sustainable alternatives to synthetic materials. While Bio-BMs are renewable and biodegradable, their true environmental impact (EI) remains unclear due to significant data gaps, especially in the early stages of production, and challenges in conducting accurate life cycle assessments (LCA).
 
This project aims to address these challenges by developing a methodological framework for compiling life cycle inventory data and rigorously evaluating Bio-BMs in real-world scenarios. By bridging disciplinary barriers and ensuring data-driven assessments, the research seeks to validate the environmental benefits of Bio-BMs, enhance transparency in sustainable material development, and provide insights for future innovation in Bio-Couture.
This research project aims to advance fashion sustainability by exploring the environmental impact of Bio-Based Materials (Bio-BMs), specifically focusing on bacterial cellulose (BC) leather. Conducted collaboratively across three facilities, the study will utilise a life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify the environmental footprint of BC leather from raw material production to pre-processing stages.
 
The project is structured into three phases: generating life cycle inventory data, conducting a comparative LCA against traditional leather materials, and interpreting the results to provide recommendations for future Bio-BM innovation. By integrating insights from fashion, microbiology, biotechnology, and environmental science, the research seeks to enhance the sustainability profile of Bio-BMs and guide the development of environmentally friendly materials in the fashion industry.

The development of a comprehensive framework will guide the application of Bio-BMs in the fashion industry. This framework will serve as an exemplary model for integrating next-generation materials into sustainable fashion contexts. 

  • A comprehensive guide will document specific material properties, fabrication techniques, and design methodologies, providing a valuable reference for future research and industry applications. 
  • Evidence database: Parameterise the models for the compressive analysis of Bio-BMs application in fashion and inform the development of customise LCA and analysis for the environment impact 
  • Industry Influence: By sharing our findings with stakeholders via UKTF, we aim to inform and influence the sustainable fashion market, promoting the industry-wide adoption of bio-based materials. 

By integrating cross-disciplinary expertise and fostering collaborative innovation, our project will not only advance the application of Bio-BMs in fashion but also create a sustainable foundation for future developments in the field. This will benefit both disciplinary development and the broader goal of sustainable fashion. 

Expected start date: 1 November 2024 

Expected end date: 1 September 2025 

Project duration: 10 months