An Impact Innovation Funded Project
Priority Area:
Equitable Partnerships
UNUSUWUL: creating local value with British wool
The UK wool industry, facing a 53% loss due to declining domestic wool prices, is struggling with low fleece values, leading some farmers to discard their wool. The UNUSUWUL project offers a novel design and manufacturing process that enhances the value of British wool by utilising its natural felting properties. Originally developed with merino wool, the project now focuses on British wool to reduce carbon footprints and cut energy use by simplifying the supply chain. Despite success in small-scale manufacturing, scaling the process is challenged by the lack of specific metrics for UK wool’s environmental, economic, and social impacts. The project aims to establish equitable partnerships between UK wool growers and brands, creating a transparent, high-value chain for underutilised wool through circular knowledge systems.
Dr. Veronika Kapsali
Professor of Materials Technology and Design
Veronika’s research is focused on advancing sustainable practices and innovation within the textile and apparel industry. She bridges the gap between fields and encourages collaboration between textile design and STEM disciplines, supporting the development of the UNUSUWUL. Veronika leads the Active Material System Research (AMSR) group, which explores how biology, material engineering, and textile design, can drive innovation in sustainable and circular textile materials and processes.
Name of Lead Applicant:
Job Title:
Organisation:
Additional Team Members:
Veronika Kapsali
Professor of Material Technology and Design
University of the Arts London
Nicci James (Specialist Knitwear Designer)
The approach involves a series of work packages that include developing a comprehensive stakeholder map, creating robust data collection methodologies, and conducting extensive testing of NBW yarns. By comparing these fibers with standard materials like Merino wool and synthetic blends, the project aims to highlight the benefits of NBW in knitting and felting, ultimately creating high-value textile products. The data collected will inform the development of practical product applications, such as apparel, and contribute to the creation of transparent, evidence-based pathways for sustainable manufacturing.
Long-term, the project seeks to establish equitable partnerships across the textile supply chain, from farmers to brands, by providing a clear, data-driven framework for integrating NBW into large-scale production. This approach aligns with the broader industry shift towards extended manufacturer responsibility and sustainable-by-design strategies, helping to mitigate risks associated with implementing new, eco-friendly manufacturing processes.
The lack of accessible data on UK-grown, breed-specific wool hinders the development of equitable partnerships within the industry. Current standards, like fibre diameter, fail to capture the full potential of native British wool (NBW) for innovative manufacturing processes. This project aims to fill this data gap by evaluating the processability of NBW fibres for knitting and felting, comparing them with widely used fibres like Merino Lambswool and synthetic blends. Initial findings suggest that coarser NBW fibres, though initially seen as undesirable, can yield remarkable results after processing. By creating quantifiable datasets on NBW’s properties and its supply chain, the project seeks to establish transparent, equitable relationships between stakeholders. Demonstrating the UNUSUWUL process in practice will showcase NBW’s value, enable brands to quantify their impact more accurately, and compare local production networks with global ones, highlighting the ecological and economic benefits of using NBW.
Expected start date: 1st October 2024
Expected end date: 30th September 2025
Project duration: 12 months